These large pancakes are either soft and doughy - rather like a floury Mexican tortilla - or crisper and ultra-thin, somewhat resembling a Breton crepe The filling is usually potato. A dull description though it may sound, this dosa stuffing is a just fabulous. Panni poori is an all-time favourite Asian snack, where tiny hollow pillows of crisp bread dough (poori or puri) have been deep-fried (they resemble the pommes souffle of French haute cuisine) until they puff up. These are then punctured with the thumb, filled with chick peas, pieces of potato and a deeply delicious tamarind liquor. It should be noted here that Indian vegetarian cooking is possibly the most interesting in the world.Along with the sag, chick peas (chana) cooked in a rich and sharp tamarind- based sauce were another successful purchase; the plump and soft pulse taking up the spices and sauce in the most agreeable manner. Most of the menus are for use as take-aways, as well as for those sitting at table (these are usually simple affairs, relying on much use of Formica and plastic), and - on the whole - the choice is vegetarian. Cumin seemed to be the predominant spice used in the carton we bought, and the oil or ghee that had been used as lubricant sort of floated on top.Indian cafes abound in Southall's high street.

There would be no problem finding this - many Asians live in Southall and much good Indian food can be found there. Sag is uncommonly good when carefully prepared. Essentially, it is spinach that has been cooked to within an inch of its life, together with subtle spicing, a fresh green chilli or two and some leaves of coriander stirred in at the last minute. Gay expressed a craving for green chilli; I needed something sort of warm and greasy, and we both wanted a carton of something sloppy called sag. It is just after the last sign to Ruislip coming into London and not far beyond the Hoover building if you are Oxford- or Birmingham-bound. But it was not until two weeks ago, whilst driving back from Oxford with my Australian restaurateur friend Gay Bilson (she operates the truly remarkable Bennelong restaurant in the Sydney Opera House), that I finally managed to take the exit.

We were both starving and needed something more than just a plate of food. Trim the pastry either in line with the top of the tin, or with the top of the filling. Serve about 10 minutes out of the oven rather than piping hot.`Lulu's Provencal Table' (HarperCollins pounds 25) by Richard Olney is available from Books for Cooks 0171-229 1992. Having used the M40 motorway out of London for too many more years than I care to remember, I have always longed to take the sign that says "Southall" when just sitting there in endless exhaust. Sprinkle over the grated Parmesan and bake for 30-35 minutes. Add these leaves to the onion and garlic and cook for 10 minutes, seasoning well.Whisk the eggs and cream in a large bowl, add the chard mixture, stir well, then pour into the tart case. Drain and refresh in cold water, squeeze out thoroughly and chop.

Heat the olive oil in a largish saucepan and sweat the onion and garlic over a low heat for 10-15 minutes until slippery and soft, stirring occasionally, then add the sorrel and cook until it turns a dull khaki.Add the chard and spinach leaves to the boiling water, bring back to the boil and cook for two minutes. Bake for 25 minutes until lightly golden, then remove foil and beans.While the pastry is baking, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Roll the pastry 1/8"/0.25cm thick on a lightly floured surface and line a 10"/25.5cm x 2"/5cm tart tin so the pastry hangs over the sides. Weight with foil and baking beans (dried pulses will do), so the sides are well- secured. If you are going to serve the tart cold, then halve the number of eggs for a creamier set.9oz/250g puff pastry4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil1 large onion, peeled, halved and sliced1 head of garlic, peeled and sliced8oz/225g sorrel, ribs removed, and sliced1lb/450g Swiss chard, leaf part only8oz/225g spinachsea salt, black pepper4 medium eggs10fl oz/275ml double cream3 tbsp freshly grated ParmesanPreheat the oven to 180c (fan oven)/190 (electric oven)/375f/Gas 5. Just before serving add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the chopped parsley and chives, and adjust seasoning, I usually scatter over a few flakes of Maldon sea salt.Swiss Chard and Sorrel Tart, serves 6Under threat of having to carry my own luggage I agreed to take just one cookery book, Lulu's Provencal Table, by Richard Olney, a recipe from which forms the basis of this tart. Bring to a simmer, cover with a saucepan lid and braise for 20 minutes.