The waters here are famously rich in plankton-loving oysters. All are opened, dressed or cooked to order. Isle of Ulva Oysters, Isle of Ulva (01688 500264). The restaurant is also justly famous for its smoked fish (especially cod's roe) produced in the smokehouse behind the premises. The Company Shed, 129 Coast Road, West Mersea, Essex CO5 8PA (01206 382700) doubles as fish shop and shellfish restaurant. Heather and Richard Haward buy in locally caught, spankingly fresh fish from the surrounding coast. Along with a wide variety of shellfish, Richard farms his own oysters, buying spats from Scotland and fattening them locally. Traditionally oysters were eaten only then there was an R in the month but today both pacific and native oysters are edible all year round - which is why Whitstable holds its festival in July..

Beside the market square in the charming village of Orford, the Butley Oysterage, Market Hill, Orford, Woodbridge, Suffolk (01394 450277) serves sweet, plump specimens, home-grown on the river Butley. The Oyster Fisheries Exhibition is open daily except Wednesdays 10am-4pm, May-September. Worthy of a mention is The Royal Native Oyster Stores on the seafront for an excellent daily menu of seafood and somewhere to unravel a short history of the Whitstable Native over dinner with a few friends. As an alternative you could also try the tiny Wheelers Oyster Bar in the High Street (est 1856). At the end of an afternoon learning about oysters and how best to consume them, I perched myself on a stool there and stared at the fine display of local treasures before ordering a round of prawn sandwiches.This weekend visit Whitstable for the annual oyster festival Call 01227 275482 for details.