A dull description though it may sound, this dosa stuffing is a just fabulous. Panni poori is an all-time favourite Asian snack, where tiny hollow pillows of crisp bread dough (poori or puri) have been deep-fried (they resemble the pommes souffle of French haute cuisine) until they puff up. These are then punctured with the thumb, filled with chick peas, pieces of potato and a deeply delicious tamarind liquor. It should be noted here that Indian vegetarian cooking is possibly the most interesting in the world.Along with the sag, chick peas (chana) cooked in a rich and sharp tamarind- based sauce were another successful purchase; the plump and soft pulse taking up the spices and sauce in the most agreeable manner. Most of the menus are for use as take-aways, as well as for those sitting at table (these are usually simple affairs, relying on much use of Formica and plastic), and - on the whole - the choice is vegetarian. Cumin seemed to be the predominant spice used in the carton we bought, and the oil or ghee that had been used as lubricant sort of floated on top.Indian cafes abound in Southall's high street. There would be no problem finding this - many Asians live in Southall and much good Indian food can be found there. Sag is uncommonly good when carefully prepared.

Essentially, it is spinach that has been cooked to within an inch of its life, together with subtle spicing, a fresh green chilli or two and some leaves of coriander stirred in at the last minute. Gay expressed a craving for green chilli; I needed something sort of warm and greasy, and we both wanted a carton of something sloppy called sag. It is just after the last sign to Ruislip coming into London and not far beyond the Hoover building if you are Oxford- or Birmingham-bound. But it was not until two weeks ago, whilst driving back from Oxford with my Australian restaurateur friend Gay Bilson (she operates the truly remarkable Bennelong restaurant in the Sydney Opera House), that I finally managed to take the exit. We were both starving and needed something more than just a plate of food.