Roll the pastry 1/8"/0.25cm thick on a lightly floured surface and line a 10"/25.5cm x 2"/5cm tart tin so the pastry hangs over the sides. Weight with foil and baking beans (dried pulses will do), so the sides are well- secured. If you are going to serve the tart cold, then halve the number of eggs for a creamier set.9oz/250g puff pastry4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil1 large onion, peeled, halved and sliced1 head of garlic, peeled and sliced8oz/225g sorrel, ribs removed, and sliced1lb/450g Swiss chard, leaf part only8oz/225g spinachsea salt, black pepper4 medium eggs10fl oz/275ml double cream3 tbsp freshly grated ParmesanPreheat the oven to 180c (fan oven)/190 (electric oven)/375f/Gas 5. Just before serving add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the chopped parsley and chives, and adjust seasoning, I usually scatter over a few flakes of Maldon sea salt.Swiss Chard and Sorrel Tart, serves 6Under threat of having to carry my own luggage I agreed to take just one cookery book, Lulu's Provencal Table, by Richard Olney, a recipe from which forms the basis of this tart.

Bring to a simmer, cover with a saucepan lid and braise for 20 minutes. If much liquid remains at the end, cook uncovered until the vegetables are sitting in a thickened sauce.Remove to a bowl and cool. Pour over the wine, 5 fl oz/150ml of water or so that the hearts are three quarters covered, and the lemon juice. Add the bay leaves and thyme, 1 teaspoon of salt and some black pepper, and cover with a circle of baking parchment. Upstairs, gypsy musicians play as old men bicker and fight over bridge.These days, the centre attracts Poles who are now coming over, legally or otherwise, to make some money They are mistrusted, looked down on. Fabulous paintings by Topolski and others cover the massive walls. Perfectly dressed women with bright red lipstick work behind the counters.