Even these did not promise a match for the biting wind outside, but on entering the extraordinary Belle Epoque room we were relieved. It is one of the most glamorous, seductive, breathtaking rooms imaginable, with a ceiling of blue sky and clouds, a circle of gilt fanciness suspended beneath and everywhere pink marble, chandeliers, flowers and candlelight.It being a Friday night, a dinner dance was in progress. Such affairs in hotels can often be naff, with men with strange hair crooning "Hun forgeddubble .. hasss ... uh ... woyouarrruh" and nobody else there But here the room was full and buzzing. A jazz band with clarinet and sax was playing "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend", transporting one back to the New York of the 50s.

There was a delicious air of being fussed over at the highest level, with many very busy waiters and trolleys. One parked at our table, showing off a large side of roast beef. As my date remarked, it was rather like being in a Chinese dim sum market. For reasons not unconnected with the fact that starters alone ranged from pounds 10 to pounds 61, we opted for the set four-course dinner at pounds 49.