But at only pounds 4 a head for a day tour it hardly seemed worth bargaining. The next morning the hotelier's son took us to the river. One said "Avoid Mohammed at all costs: he is slimy and ignorant". Since half the population of Egypt seem to be share this name, the advice could have been more specific. The best way of getting to the Valley of the Kings is the way of the ancients: by donkey. The deal was sewn up within 10 minutes of our arrival in Luxor. Our hotelier's son, laid-back and very young, produced a visitor's book, stuffed with recommendations. Almost all were fulsome in their praise, and raved about the donkey trip to the Valley of the Kings Most said "Make sure you get Mohammed".

As Jack Barker explains opposite.Whether you are satisfied with a donkey ride to the Valley of the Kings or crave the sight of a whale to crown the big five land mammals, now is the moment to visit Africa Just remember to stop if you see a zebra crossing.. And has the art of prospering from visitors down to a fine piece of theatre. But tourism has been less damaging than some other forms of exploitation, and a positive force for preservation in many parts of Africa.Moving north, Egypt has enjoyed or endured tourism for centuries. And the sight of a dozen safari vehicles converging on a family of lions makes you fret about the way that the Travel Empire has conquered the Animal Kingdom. The Kenyan capital is base camp for more intensive - and expensive - safaris than a day out in Pilanesburg.Hang on, though: what about the corrosive impact of tourism on the environment and the people? Certainly the treatment of Kenya's Masai Mara, displaced from their homelands in the name of tourism, has been shameful. Nairobi is pounds 300 away, aboard Sudan Airways via Khartoum, and not very much more on less flamboyant airlines.