Pour over the wine, 5 fl oz/150ml of water or so that the hearts are three quarters covered, and the lemon juice. Add the bay leaves and thyme, 1 teaspoon of salt and some black pepper, and cover with a circle of baking parchment. Upstairs, gypsy musicians play as old men bicker and fight over bridge.These days, the centre attracts Poles who are now coming over, legally or otherwise, to make some money They are mistrusted, looked down on. Fabulous paintings by Topolski and others cover the massive walls. Perfectly dressed women with bright red lipstick work behind the counters. The place is full of professional people, many born here, and they still speak Polish. This magnificent centre, with its restaurants, card rooms, a theatre and cafe, was built entirely with private cash.

Once demobbed, Hampel became a grave-digger, Janusz a kitchen porter, while Boleslaw hand-made lavatory chains. Then they went to college, qualified, and obviously found prosperity. We felt outraged." So they took up the role of a government and army in-waiting, refusing to accept what had happened to their country. Some died before democracy finally came to Poland.But they coped, they tell me, as we emerge from that dark tunnel of recollection. They kissed the backside of Mr Stalin".So do they have mixed feelings about the Allies? Not really, says Hampel: "We have very definite feelings.