This is something that is a permanent condiment in her Sydney fridge - at least it always seems to be. If I was to describe this bright green sludge as addictive, then it would surely be an understatement: fresh and herby, sprightly from chilli, warmed by a hint of cumin and sharpened with citric juices. Mellow coconut milk is the lubricator and salt and sugar provide final seasoning. The best dosas I have so far encountered have been in and around London's Drummond Street, just north of Euston Road.While Gay was staying with me, I asked her to make me some "green paste". The potatoes are lightly spiced with fennel, cumin, mustard and fenugreek seeds and sometimes chopped spring onion is included (Asian champ?) Fresh green chilli, but not too much, lends a subtle "heat", and the usual condiment served with dosas is a mild and creamy coconut chutney.

Leaves of fresh coriander add the correct note if any sort of "garnish" is thought to be a consideration.One of the most notable preparations in Indian vegetarian cooking (although not encountered in this particular high street) is the stuffed dosa. These large pancakes are either soft and doughy - rather like a floury Mexican tortilla - or crisper and ultra-thin, somewhat resembling a Breton crepe The filling is usually potato. A dull description though it may sound, this dosa stuffing is a just fabulous. Panni poori is an all-time favourite Asian snack, where tiny hollow pillows of crisp bread dough (poori or puri) have been deep-fried (they resemble the pommes souffle of French haute cuisine) until they puff up. These are then punctured with the thumb, filled with chick peas, pieces of potato and a deeply delicious tamarind liquor. It should be noted here that Indian vegetarian cooking is possibly the most interesting in the world.Along with the sag, chick peas (chana) cooked in a rich and sharp tamarind- based sauce were another successful purchase; the plump and soft pulse taking up the spices and sauce in the most agreeable manner.