To get to Luxor you need a visa for Egypt: contact the Egyptian Consulate- General, 2 Lowndes Street, London SW1X 9ET (0171-235 9777) for more information, and check with the Foreign Office (0171-238 4503) for the latest travel advice for the region. And it turned out Mohammed liked bananas.The Brooke Clinic for sick animals has a hospital in Luxor, and suggests all visitors refuse to hire unhealthy donkeys. As I stood there bargaining, Mohammed hit Casanova on the haunches. I turned, clutching a hand of bananas, to see my donkey pelting off down a sidetrack.You can't park a Sierra that easily. When we hit the Tarmac I stopped at a roadside stall to buy a bunch of bananas for my tireless steed.

While we caught our breath, he protectively bargained down the price of a Coke on our behalf. Then we crossed the mountains towards the irrigated green smudge of the Nile Valley.As we threaded along the banks of irrigation canals towards the road, I started to plan Casanova's reward. The last few tombs were seen in a purse-lipped meanness, proof against further demands on my wallet.It was a relief to climb back up the mountain to find Mohammed. In the distance, flocks of tourists flooded around the best tombs. Donkeys are kept well clear, and we scrambled down on foot.Any politeness to the guards lurking in the depths of the ancient tombs led to a request for money and within minutes my small change had run out.