Worried and apologetic because of the state of the rough lane, the manager of the Canyon Nature Park rang to warn us that the camp could only be reached in a 4x4. Over two-and-a-half days, 74mm of rain fell in the Fish River Canyon - a whole year's rainfall. The gravel road was covered with treacherous drifts of sand deposited by ephemeral rivers; part of the lane leading to the canyon itself was washed away and the airstrip was filled with fissures created by swift flowing floods. Charter flights direct to Luxor operate through companies such as Tradewinds (01706 260000) or Thomson (0990 502399) Expect to pay around pounds 250 for a flight.. This consumer pressure has improved the health of all livestock used in the tourist trade. To get to Luxor you need a visa for Egypt: contact the Egyptian Consulate- General, 2 Lowndes Street, London SW1X 9ET (0171-235 9777) for more information, and check with the Foreign Office (0171-238 4503) for the latest travel advice for the region.

And it turned out Mohammed liked bananas.The Brooke Clinic for sick animals has a hospital in Luxor, and suggests all visitors refuse to hire unhealthy donkeys. As I stood there bargaining, Mohammed hit Casanova on the haunches. I turned, clutching a hand of bananas, to see my donkey pelting off down a sidetrack.You can't park a Sierra that easily. When we hit the Tarmac I stopped at a roadside stall to buy a bunch of bananas for my tireless steed. While we caught our breath, he protectively bargained down the price of a Coke on our behalf.

Then we crossed the mountains towards the irrigated green smudge of the Nile Valley.As we threaded along the banks of irrigation canals towards the road, I started to plan Casanova's reward. The last few tombs were seen in a purse-lipped meanness, proof against further demands on my wallet.It was a relief to climb back up the mountain to find Mohammed. In the distance, flocks of tourists flooded around the best tombs. Donkeys are kept well clear, and we scrambled down on foot.Any politeness to the guards lurking in the depths of the ancient tombs led to a request for money and within minutes my small change had run out. We progressed along narrow paths over terrifying chasms, deep into a biblical landscape of sunblasted rock. From the seat of our donkeys we looked down on world- famous sites. Salesmen bearing scarabs appeared from under rocks and strolled casually up on collision courses but Casanova knew his route and brushed them aside.Finally we crested a mountain to look down on the signposted paths of the Valley of the Kings.