It should be noted here that Indian vegetarian cooking is possibly the most interesting in the world.Along with the sag, chick peas (chana) cooked in a rich and sharp tamarind- based sauce were another successful purchase; the plump and soft pulse taking up the spices and sauce in the most agreeable manner. Most of the menus are for use as take-aways, as well as for those sitting at table (these are usually simple affairs, relying on much use of Formica and plastic), and - on the whole - the choice is vegetarian. Cumin seemed to be the predominant spice used in the carton we bought, and the oil or ghee that had been used as lubricant sort of floated on top.Indian cafes abound in Southall's high street. There would be no problem finding this - many Asians live in Southall and much good Indian food can be found there. Sag is uncommonly good when carefully prepared. Essentially, it is spinach that has been cooked to within an inch of its life, together with subtle spicing, a fresh green chilli or two and some leaves of coriander stirred in at the last minute.

Gay expressed a craving for green chilli; I needed something sort of warm and greasy, and we both wanted a carton of something sloppy called sag. It is just after the last sign to Ruislip coming into London and not far beyond the Hoover building if you are Oxford- or Birmingham-bound. But it was not until two weeks ago, whilst driving back from Oxford with my Australian restaurateur friend Gay Bilson (she operates the truly remarkable Bennelong restaurant in the Sydney Opera House), that I finally managed to take the exit. We were both starving and needed something more than just a plate of food. Trim the pastry either in line with the top of the tin, or with the top of the filling. Serve about 10 minutes out of the oven rather than piping hot.`Lulu's Provencal Table' (HarperCollins pounds 25) by Richard Olney is available from Books for Cooks 0171-229 1992. Having used the M40 motorway out of London for too many more years than I care to remember, I have always longed to take the sign that says "Southall" when just sitting there in endless exhaust.

Sprinkle over the grated Parmesan and bake for 30-35 minutes. Add these leaves to the onion and garlic and cook for 10 minutes, seasoning well.Whisk the eggs and cream in a large bowl, add the chard mixture, stir well, then pour into the tart case. Drain and refresh in cold water, squeeze out thoroughly and chop. Heat the olive oil in a largish saucepan and sweat the onion and garlic over a low heat for 10-15 minutes until slippery and soft, stirring occasionally, then add the sorrel and cook until it turns a dull khaki.Add the chard and spinach leaves to the boiling water, bring back to the boil and cook for two minutes. Bake for 25 minutes until lightly golden, then remove foil and beans.While the pastry is baking, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Roll the pastry 1/8"/0.25cm thick on a lightly floured surface and line a 10"/25.5cm x 2"/5cm tart tin so the pastry hangs over the sides. Weight with foil and baking beans (dried pulses will do), so the sides are well- secured.