Activists, Japanese whalers skirmish
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His museum is now closed. That is one of the problems: most guidebooks to Moscow can no longer be relied on. In these circumstances, unless you are a specialist in Slavonic studies, it might seem a waste of an afternoon to walk some distance and risk losing your way, just to pore over Lermontov's handwriting But think again. Even a non-Russian speaker may get a thrill from seeing the table at which Tolstoy wrote Resurrection, and there are pleasures in literary tourism that have little to do with literature. You soon find out that, though writers may start their careers in garrets, they often end up with rather decent accommodation, which is lovingly preserved. Half a day or a day spent strolling around literary Moscow is a dip into Russia's cultural history that should compensate for any time lost to other forms of tourism.Every Russian literary museum has two things: soft overshoes to protect the parquet flooring, and several women of a certain age who sit in the corner reading Gone With The Wind in Russian and supervising the exhibits; they are usually ready to put down their books and provide information, and sometimes typewritten guides in different languages. But their wages must be minimal and it remains to be seen how long the new market economy can continue to support their consumption of American bestsellers, before replacing them with something electronic, or closing down the museum altogether.